Movado doesn’t get a lot of love these days. Its current manifestation is a faint shadow of its former self. But in its heyday, Movado could hold its head up with the big boys, producing complicated wristwatches that competed with Longines, Omega and Zenith. Here’s a watch that’ll show you what Movado once was.

This is a Movado Subsea, a late version of Movado’s handwound chronograph calibre 95M. It is intended to be waterproof, with screwback and round pushers. It is a supremely elegant design, with a lacquer black dial and contrasting white subdials, a tuxedo in a watch case.

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