Jewelry by Trifari: The All-Star Selections by Collectors
By Pamela Wiggins-Siegel
Of all the topics I’ve covered in this column, I’ve never focused solely on Trifari. I’ve included some of the company’s jewelry in roundups of collector favorites a few times, but when it comes to covering Trifari as a whole, the topic always seems too daunting to tackle in a compact space. The company was, after all, one of the giants in the American costume jewelry industry based in Providence, R.I., and they sold millions of pieces of jewelry over many decades in business.
To remedy this, here’s an overview about what makes jewelry produced by this notable firm so popular with collectors and dating jewelry looking at the marks used over the company’s long history. And, of course, I’ll highlight several of the “all-star” jewelry categories avidly sought by Trifari fans.
What Makes It So Collectible
This might seem like a no-brainer when you look at these amazing jewelry pieces, but Trifari remains at the top of the heap among collectors for several reasons. First, the jewelry is high quality regardless of the era or the price point. From 1930s Art Deco pieces—many of which were designed and crafted by individuals who moved over from the fine jewelry industry—to mod jewelry made decades later, the metals have held up nicely. This includes the brand’s proprietary “Trifanium” gold and platinum simulants introduced in 1947. Additionally, Trifari’s components rarely break when pieces have been stored and handled properly.
Another factor driving Trifari’s popularity is that it’s one of the companies that patented many pieces in the late 1930s and throughout the 1940s. Alfred Philippe, the company’s head designer who previously worked for Cartier, filed many of those patents, but he was just one of many on staff who came up with Trifari’s famed designs. Trifari also advertised in many magazines during the 1950s and ’60s. These resources make Trifari much easier to research regarding production dates and line names compared to other companies.
And, of course, you have the eye-catching collections that stand out as some of the company’s all-star designs. There are many more, of course, but these are a few lines and styles that continually take the spotlight.
Clair de Lune Collection
Trifari Clair de Lune necklace and earrings set, 1950, $800-$1,000.
Clair de Lune—the French term for moonlight—was a collection patented by Trifari in 1949 and advertised in Harper’s Bazaar in 1950. It beautifully features simulated moonstone crescents and cabochons combined with rhinestones in clear and gemstone colors, including sapphire blue and ruby red set in gold-toned metalwork. This wasn’t the only Trifari collection incorporating faux moonstones, but these are some of the most desirable. A suite containing a necklace, hinged bangle bracelet, and matching earrings can easily sell in the $1,500-$2,000 range.
Jelly Belly Jewelry
Trifari Jelly Belly frog brooch, 1940s, $650-$850.
Trifari’s jelly belly jewelry remains popular with collectors, and prices are rising. Jelly Belly is a collector’s nickname for this type of jewelry; Trifari more generically called it the Lucite Group. These clever brooches were made with segments of flawed Lucite unsuitable for use as airplane windows during World War II, as former Trifari Vice President Irving Wolf shared during a collector’s convention I attended in 2005. Given the era, most of the settings holding these polished Lucite cabochons are made of sterling silver. Small examples like flies can sell for around $250-$300, while rare ones like parrots, elephants, and flowers can bring several thousand each.
Fruit Salad Pieces
Trifari Clip-Mates fruit salad brooch, mid-1930s, $500-$700.
No mention of Trifari’s most popular designs would be complete without including their “fruit salad” offerings. These little molded glass fruits and leaves mimic Cartier’s Tutti Frutti styles introduced in the 1930s. Trifari made all the popular styles of the day, including pairs of dress clips and wide bracelets set with fruit salad stones. In the 1950s and ‘60s, the company revived the use of these stones in updated styles and colors. The most elaborate Art Deco designs easily sell in the thousands, and even the newer pieces are increasingly more challenging to find at reasonable prices.
Something Wild and Garden of Eden Lines
Trifari Something Wild dragon bracelet, 1960, $600-$800.
When it comes to my personal wish list of Trifari pieces, my preferences always seem to gravitate toward the 1960s. For instance, I adore the “Something Wild” designs dating to 1960, including a hinged dragon bracelet. There are many others from this decade that I haven’t had the pleasure of owning yet, however.
Another line other collectors covet as much as I do is Garden of Eden. The pieces shown in an ad dating to 1968 feature coiled serpents with emerald green enameling and coordinating glass drops dangling from their mouths. They were made in other jewel tones as well, including red, blue, and topaz. These pieces sell in the thousands now, so unless I get extremely lucky, they’ll remain among my dream finds. Of course, there are many other interesting Trifari figurals that run the gamut in price, so I’ll plan on expounding on that theme the next time I write about Trifari jewelry.
A lacy patterned filigree circular pin of sterling silver
turquoise center with matching earrings from Trifari. Getty Images
Dating Trifari Using Marks
Now that you know about some of the fan favorites made by this costume jewelry giant, you should learn how to date Trifari using marks. Many pieces can be researched through patent resources and vintage advertising, but not all of them. The company was founded in 1910 by Gustavo Trifari with his uncle as Trifari & Trifari. After Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel came aboard, the name changed to Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel in 1925. This information is important because the earlier pieces of highly collectible jewelry made by Trifari in the 1930s are marked TKF (with a larger T in the center of K and F). By the mid-to late-1930s, the mark changed to Trifari with a crown over the T. Pieces made after 1955 can have a copyright symbol as part of the mark. In the 1970s, the crown over the T was dropped. TM for trademark was added to Trifari in the 1980s.
Trying to differentiate old and new, online marketers tend to call everything “Crown Trifari” these days. Should you call all jewelry made from the late 1930s to the early 1970s Crown Trifari? In my opinion, no. The name of the company is Trifari, period. With that said, focusing on Trifari’s unique designs in all their glory is more important—and way more fun—than quibbling over semantics.
Photos by Jay Siegel
PAMELA WIGGINS SIEGEL has been buying, selling, and collecting costume jewelry for over 30 years. She is the author of Warman’s Costume Jewelry and the co-founder of Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l, an organization dedicated to hosting events and providing educational resources for collectors. Visit her online at Chic Antiques by Pamela and Costume Jewelry Collectors International.
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